The ‘very true’ origins of the Wrekin
I grew up in the shadow of the Wrekin. My childhood seemed
to be a patchwork of long Sundays exploring its surrounding woods and treading its
well-worn path. It appeared to me as something out of the mind of Tolkien (who
indeed used to walk the same paths as me during his time living in Penkridge)
The Wrekin- in my mind will forever be a place of magic, and wholly beautiful.
I used to imagine fairies and Goblins, wild tree men as well as a Motley Crue
of long-forgotten warriors, who once lived on its summit. The route up the Wrekin
is steep, but whenever you reached the ‘Halfway house’ café you could ruminate
and reflect on your journey over a Twix or mars bar, looking out over the green
valley, and think about the view from the top. Sitting 5 miles west of Telford,
It is a contained in the northern panhandle of the Shropshire hills, and at
1,335 ft on a clear day the views are to die for- including Staffordshire and
the black country and as far as Winter Hill in Lancashire and the Manchester
Beetham Tower. Thus, as a kid it felt like the mantle of the world, like
nothing could be higher, or more important, it was my own personal Amon Hen.
The whole area has a rich geographical and historical significance. Now I am no
expert Geologist, but it is worthy of note that at least in part it is formed
from rocks of volcanic origin of Precambrian age. These include rhyolites, tuffs,
and agglomerates. These rocks – layers of ancient lava flows laid down in a
volcanic island arc, like modern Japan – are approximately 680 million years
old (Though it is worthy of note that the Wrekin was never an active
volcano) If this is something that interests you further you should
definitely look into it.
Historically, the earliest mention of ‘The Wrekin’ is in a charter of 855. This
was entered into a later 11th century Worcester cartulary and
spelt ‘Wreocensetun’. Its modern form is said to have come into
being via the way of Mercia and have been taken from the early Celtic ‘Wrikon’
There also existed a minor Anglo-Saxon kingdom called ‘Wreocensæte’ which was
later absorbed into Mercian reign. Interestingly, for several centuries the
hill was known as Mount Gilbert which was given to it by the Normans after a
hermit who lived there.
One of the most captivating things about The Wrekin is
that near its summit lies the site of an iron age hill fort. It is thought to
be at least 20 acres in size, and was known as Caer Uriconio, an important site
for the Cornovii tribe and was perhaps the site of their capital before
the Romans had them moved to Wroxeter (Viroconium
Cornoviorum). The size of such a settlement suggests that it was
occupied by a large community where centralised economic and social activities
were practiced, including the storage and redistribution of food and the
performing of ceremonies. The defensive strength of the hillfort is enhanced by
its topographic location, with the surrounding ground sloping steeply in all
directions. It certainly is enthralling to think that for a whole
community- the Wrekin was home and wonder if this played a part in its later
cultural importance to Shropshire folk- after all they say a ‘Shropshire mon
is nevver lost if he can see the Wrekin’. This hill is important to us.
When we reach the 18th and 19th
century, the Wrekin was certainly a popular attraction. It became the ‘thing to
do’ to ascend the slopes and was quite fashionable to walk up the Wrekin.
Similarly, during the 18th century (and
perhaps earlier, its origins are lost in time) a festival known as ‘The
Wrekin Wakes’ took place on the first Sunday in May. This saw local people
ascend the hill on mass, where the ‘pleasure seekers’ would be met…
“With ale-booths, ginger-bread-standings, gaming-tables, swing-boats,
merry-go-rounds, three-sticks-a-penny, and all the etcetera’s of an old English
fair.”
One cannot help but smile whilst imagining such a sight. The event’s climax was
the yearly battle between the Colliers and the Countrymen for the possession of
the hill. Such a ceremonial spectacle would have been great to witness and
reminds me of the battle between The Green Man and Ice Queen at the Clun Green
man Festival, just with far more violence. Charlotte Burne recounts that if one
side was being seen to be losing early, they sent messengers around the local
village for reinforcements. Sometimes the two sides were evenly balanced, and
apparently the men of Wellington often took the side of the countrymen over the
miners. Nevertheless, this was seen as such fun, despite the fighting being
severe, and often causing fatal injuries.
Apparently, this practice caused such disorderly scenes,
that when the Cludde family of Orleton bought the manorial rights, over the
first portion of the hill, they determined to put down the Wake by force, and
employed a party of Gamekeepers and Constables to clear the hill. The Wake
continued in some form or another though as it was described in 1826 as a time
to drink to the health of ‘all the friends around the Wrekin’ and was seen as
more of a moral failing to participate. I love knowing such a ruckus took place
and cannot help but admire the fitness of the poor messengers having to traipse
up and down the Wrekin’s slopes.
The Wrekin also has a number of folk tales attached to itself, including
two ‘origin’ stories. I have retold my favourite of the two
here, I hope you find them as interesting as I do.
The ‘very true’ origins of the
Wrekin
Gwendol Wrekin ap Shenkin ap Myndmawr was a man with a
grudge. By man, I mean a grumpy Welsh giant with a searing hatred of Shrewsbury
and all its inhabitants. It hadn’t always been that way- No, once he’d had a
good thing going with them. He had an agreement with the mayor of Shrewsbury
that he wouldn’t smash the town to pieces, as long as they provided him with a
steady supply of young women to eat. Obviously, the mayor didn’t know he ate
them… but then again, the mayor didn’t really ask.
This happened for some time, and Gwendol was satisfied-
until one day, a young woman was sacrificed who was cleverer than the rest. She
guessed her fate was sealed, and before being delivered to the giant- she
concealed some herbs and special plants on her person and used them to send the
giant into a deep slumber. So Gwendol had an early night- and the woman snuck
away- not before taking note of the piles of bones and skulls that littered
Gwendol’s cave. When she returned to Shrewsbury, she had a few choice words to
say to the mayor- as well as telling him that Gwendol was in fact eating at Shrewsbury’s
woman folk.
So, from that day- the Mayor never sent another woman to
be eaten by a giant. How commendable.
however, when Gwendol woke up- and eventually realised he wasn’t getting any
more free meals, he became very angry. And his anger grew and grew- The people
of Shrewsbury were detestable, loathsome people, and their very existence
insulted him. And as for that Mayor- well Gwendol decided he hated that Mayor
most of all.
So days past and his anger was all consuming, he sat among the hills stewing on
how much he wanted to wipe Shrewsbury out of existence. Day in, day out he
imagined life without the lamentable town, day in day out he tried to think of
ways he could complete his task, to no avail.
Then one day, the idea struck him, whilst he sat among
the hills.
It seemed so simple; he had such an easy solution to his
problems! like a lightning strike he
resolved that he had to act. Gwendol decided that he would dam the great river
Seven that snaked its way through the county, past farm, and field and through
Shrewsbury. Thus, there would be a monumental flood, filling the
streets and drowning all the towns inhabitants. Gwendol smiled at his plan,
proud of his ingenuity. They would be his burden no more.
So that was that. He wasted no time in rising from his
hilly perch and grabbing his spade. With one great swoop he plunged it into the
earth and lifted a great mound of earth. He then began his journey.
Mile after mile Gwendol marched, barely stopping to catch
his breath, spade so full that even he struggled under its weight. He knew the
route well, having terrorised the local area in the past. However, as the hot
sun beat down on his back, he began to get tired, and confused. The roads all
twisted and turned and despite being taller than the hedgerows and thickets, it
all looked the same. Gwendol had got lost.
It had to be close now, Surely, he had to be near…
A short while later he heard footsteps approaching. The
footsteps belonged to a man, old and grey who hobbled along carrying a large
sack of boots and shoes. The man was a cobbler and lived in the nearby town of
Wellington. The cobbler would journey to Shrewsbury every day to collect
customers shoes to mend, then return home and fix them before
sunrise. He had noticed Gwendol some time before, but walked without
a care, pretending not to notice the ugly giant heading in his direction.
Gwendol was tired, and at this point his wits had failed
him. He just wanted the journey to be over, so he could rid himself of the
blasted town, and then he could rest his tired bones. So, he didn’t hesitate to
ask the man for directions. He seemed old, and inoffensive enough after all.
The giant called out with an unmistakable growl. ‘I
say good man… You look well- travelled… How far is Shrewsbury? Shrewsbury my
good man, I need to know… Tell me NOW!’
‘Shrewsbury you say?’ The old man called back
quizzically- He sensed that the giant was up to no good. ‘Whatever
could you want in Shrewsbury? There isn’t much there for… your kind’ he
replied looking up at the giant.
Now Gwendol wasn’t well known for his intelligence, not
many giants are, so he quickly gave away his plan. He was proud of it after
all, and all the labour of the journey had made his senses dim further.
‘I am going to Shrewsbury’ he thundered. ‘To
drop this earth into the river Seven. Then I will rid myself of that horrible
town once and for all. I AM GOING TO DROWN THEM! HAHA that will stop them!’ he
roared open mouthed, spit flying everywhere. ‘So, tell me old
man. Tell me how to get to Shrewsbury or I will squish you flat… I need to be
there as soon as possible’.
The cobbler listened intently. Now it must be noted that
he was a practical man, and he knew that if he let the giant succeed in his
journey, he would be left with no customers, and no customers meant no food on
the table for him and his family. He also didn’t really like the idea of being
squished…
So, he looked up at the giant and smiled faintly. ‘well!
Why didn’t you tell me sooner eh? Shrewsbury… Shrewsbury…’ he
stretched out his old body. ‘Ah SHREWSBURY! You won’t get to Shrewsbury
by sunset, that’s for sure, I doubt you will make it by tomorrow either, tis a
long journey at that’
‘WHAT?!?’ Gwendol shrieked. He was sure
he was on the right path. He couldn’t have strayed that far could he.
‘If it is Shrewsbury, you are after, you have wandered
far from your course traveller,’ said the old man. ‘see this
big bag I am carrying? Filled with worn out shoes, you can see the sky through
some of them the holes are that big’
The giant nodded looking down upon the big sack.
‘Well friend, when I began my journey, these were
shiny new shoes with thick soles. To tell you the truth I am heading back from
Shrewsbury myself and have worn out every pair but the ones I’m wearing. I was
a young fella when I began- but look at me now, Owd and worn out… It is a long road and I still have miles to
tread. Many miles. Gosh that certainly looks like a heavy burden to carry all
that way! Especially in this sun!’
This infuriated Gwendol. How could he have been so
foolish? He shouted and he growled and stomped his feet. ‘I will
never make it carrying this blasted load. I will never make it in time! Oh,
cursed cursed foolish Gwendol!’
he continued to shout, getting angrier and angrier.
Suddenly he dropped the spade violently, the earth falling to the floor with a
monumental crash, creating a large mound.
Then Gwendol scraped his boot on the
spade and left the cobbler. He was angry, and embarrassed and stomped his way
back to Wales. He was never seen again, perhaps his attention was diverted to
other means, or perhaps he is still trying to think of a perfect plan.
The earth Gwendol dropped still stands to this day and
has grown to be two great hills called ‘the Wrekin’ and ‘Little Ercall by
locals. They stand as testament to the giants attempt and as memorial to the
quick-witted cobbler. One can only assumed he continued down the road and
continued to keep his customers happy.
I've always loved this story and have told it to my own children.
ReplyDeleteBut I never knew there was a second origin story! Is there any chance of another blog with that tale?
bostin owd mon
ReplyDelete