The Ghost Barge of Ironbridge
I don’t think there is a place quite like Ironbridge. That
whole area is very special to me and serves as an indelible symbol of home, and
family. You see, I grew up just up the gorge in Madeley- it’s a place I
endlessly explored, loved, and in its cemeteries my ancestors lie. Here history
is intrinsic to the landscape, and you can still see its influence on the
gorge- the remains of blast furnaces, iron and industry lie in the shadows of
the eponymous iron bridge, which has dominated the landscape since 1778. But
beyond the iron bridge there is a quieter history, of poachers, ghosts,
folklore and coracle-men and the Devil of course (it is Shropshire after
all) and this to me is the most exciting part. I want to uncover ordinary
people, and the stories and events that would have shaped their understanding
of the land. With the amount of history attached to the area, there is
understandably a number of ghost stories associated with Ironbridge, and its surrounding
villages. I want to discuss a ghost story which has fascinated me since I was a
child, it’s haunting and tragic and perhaps gives us insight into the societal
scars left on the area after a lifechanging event, but we will discuss that in
due time. I want to tell you the story of the Ghost Barge of Ironbridge.
The River Severn winds through the whole of the county like
a snake, and I think my veins follow that same path- or at least my mind does,
for it often thinks about life on its banks.
The River Severn was a goddess once, or so I’ve been told, known as
Sabrina, or Hafren in Welsh, but now it’s the domain of the ghost barge- which
is one of my favourite hauntings. This
ghostly vessel is frequently reported (one of my grandfathers was reputed to
have seen it once, whilst walking home from the foundry he worked at) and
is almost always a full apparition. It first appears not too far from the
Ironbridge, and presents as a long, dark ship, but not largely different from
any open topped boat. At its helm, a tall figure stands, often described as
wearing old fashioned clothes, or a dark cloak. It sails slowly down the river,
and as it gets closer, its cargo is revealed. The ghost barge is often
witnessed from the Ironbridge- which gives you a great vantage point to see
what it is carrying. It’s believed that on the barge, is row upon row of
corpses, piled high. This is obviously a very macabre and shocking sight, but
almost as soon as the corpses are noticed, the barge shimmers, and disappears
from view.
However, Ironbridge is not the only area the ghost barge is
reported, for many have recounted similar instances down the river in
Jackfield. Here there have been sightings of a ghostly barge tethered to the
riverbed. Accompanying the boat is the bargeman from before, now stood on the
riverbed- as if waiting, alongside rows of corpses. I believe these two
hauntings are related, and we’ve simply re-joined the bargeman at the end of
his journey.
This story is chilling, and certainly a unique haunting, but
it’s the history behind the story which makes it all of the more poignant.
Indeed, it is thought that the tale of the ghost barge dates back to the plague
of the 1660’s, which ripped through the county. The symptoms of such were
horrible, beginning with a fever or chill, and culminating with nausea,
headaches, delirium, and painful, pus-filled buboes, which- if burst would give
a 50/50 chance of survival. The plague of the 1660s hit Shropshire particularly
hard. Though records are incomplete it is a fair estimate to suggest that
Shropshire lost around 15% of its population in an 18-month period. It is
believed that the ghostly barge that sails down the river Severn is in fact a
plague boat. Until the advent of rail, the River Severn was the main source of
transport through Shropshire and to the wider world, it was used as a means of
transporting goods, and in the time of the plague, boats sailed down the river
full of the dead. These boats would transport the dead to vast plague pits, in
an attempt to halt the spread of the disease.
Interestingly, Jackfield was the location for several plague
pits, so such vessels would have followed this route. Due to the nature of
plague itself, unless immune the bargemen would often succumb to the plague.
One can only imagine the psychological effects of such a job, especially in
small communities. Conceivably those who worked on these floating charnel
houses would have been transporting friends, neighbours or even loved ones to
their final resting place. You don’t forget that kind of experience, and they
would have carried the ghosts of what they’d seen with them until the end of
their lives.
It would be easy to say that the ghost of the plague barge
is still journeying down the river, and that at its helm is a bargeman who
succumbed to such a terrible illness, that this apparition has basis in genuine
paranormal phenomena, and perhaps it does- there are certainly more modern
accounts of the haunting. However, I don’t think that does justice to the
story. If we look at what this haunting represents, we can understand the deep
scars an event like the plague would have left on a community like Ironbridge
and its wider area, which would have been smaller than it is today. As I said
earlier, Shropshire was believed to have lost around 15% of its population
during this outbreak, and that would have been devastating. I cannot help but
think what my life would be like- if 15% of the people I know were no longer
there anymore. In small, tight knit
rural communities, it would be hard to find someone who hadn’t been touched by
plague. It’s important to stress that people living during a plague would have
been under profound emotional stress and trauma, and their losses would have
been felt deeply. Similarly, it would have been very hard to know someone you
loved had been robbed their lives, and a decent burial during an era of such
fierce Christianity. Thus, I believe
this collective experience, and collective grief could influence the prevalence
of such hauntings.
Furthermore, due to the close proximity to the River Severn,
the plague would have felt like an ever-present feature of life in Ironbridge,
as they watched the boats fill up and follow the river to Jackfield. Their
presence would have made it very hard to escape the events unfolding. Even when
the boats left the rivers, and the communities recovered, the collective memory
of those times would have been repeated and remembered beyond the lives of
those who experienced them. People don’t want to forget the past, especially such
a lifechanging event as a pandemic, and so as each person’s story, and
experience was told, the plague barge sailed again. Often in folklore there is
a kernel of truth, an event or fact that has developed, and become a folktale,
and I believe this is what’s happened here, I believe that the ghost barge
haunts the River Severn because the story was repeated enough times to become a
haunting, that memories of an event such as plague deserve to be remembered.
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